When dreaming up our Pearl pattern, we knew we were creating something that could be a building block style pattern with the ability to morph and shift depending on the alterations applied to the pattern. The henley and scalloped yoke variations included in the original pattern are just two of endless versions of the Pearl you could sew.
I love the simple shape and neckline of version C and wanted to make a top with that neckline and cuffed sleeves. I also like to use a facing for a neckline finish sometimes instead of bias so I thought this would be a good project to share how to draft a facing.
Here are the steps of how to make this Pearl hack, which is Michelle's new favorite shirt. The Cotton + Steel fabric we used is a quilting cotton, from the new collection S.S. Bluebird and feels soft and cozy.
Green Bee Pearl Pattern, c-thru ruler, mechanical pencil, pins, scissors, pattern tracing paper (we like to use swedish tracing paper around our studio), all purpose thread, fabric for shirt - you can estimate about 1/2yd - 2/3yd less fabric for the shirt version vs. the dress version listed on the pattern, optional interfacing for neckline facing.
1. Trace off the pattern pieces- front, back , and sleeve. As you follow this tutorial you may wish to label each pattern piece with all pertinent pattern information.
2. Measure from your shoulder over the bust to the finished length you would like for your top, add one inch. Make a note of this number (fig. A). Measure the traced Pearl dress length in your size minus the ½" seam allowance at the shoulder (fig. B). Subtract the first total from the Pearl dress length. This is the subtraction amount you will need to remove from the lower portion of the pattern.
3. Measure from the very outside top of your shoulder down your arm to the desired sleeve length (fig. C)
4. Using a c-thru ruler mark your subtraction amount up from the hemline of the front and back pattern pieces following the shaping of the hemline so that your ruler is always at a 90 degree angle with the hemline. Make a note at the hemline that a 1" hem allowance is included.
5. Trace the front neckline and shoulder line of the Pearl Front. Mark a line 2" from the neckline, following the curved shape of the neckline. Connect this line to the center front fold line and the shoulder cutting line. This is your Front Facing pattern piece. Repeat the same step with the Pearl Back to create your Back Facing pattern piece.
6. Trace the long sleeve pattern piece in your size.
7. Mark your finished sleeve length on the pattern - start ½" down from the center top of sleeve, and measure straight down (parallel to the grainline) to the desired finished length (fig. C) and make a small mark. Mark this line across the sleeve with your c-thru ruler and be sure the ruler is parallel to the original sleeve hem line. Mark this line “Line W”.
8. Mark a line parallel to the line you just drew across the sleeve, the desired cuff depth (we used 1 3/4" ) down (fig. D). Mark this line “Line X”. Repeat this two more times, labeling the next line “Line Y” and the last line “Line Z.” Make one more parallel line ½" down from Line Z and label this line ½" hem allowance”.
9. Fold the sleeve pattern piece as if the cuff was finished, with the hem allowance folded to the wrong side. Mark the sleeve cutting line following the original sleeve seam line on each side of the sleeve cuff section. Cut along this line on each side cutting through all the cuff section pattern layers. This will create the correct cut line shaping for the cuff section.
10. Cut out one of your Pearl Top front and back from fabric, cut each on the fold. Cut two sleeves with the fabric folded either right or wrong sides together. Cut one Front Facing and one Back Facing on the fold from fabric and optionally cut one of each on the fold from interfacing.
11. Sew the top by following the original Pearl instructions stopping before you sew the side seams/sleeve seam line.
12. Press the cuff hem ½" to wrong side. With the ½" hem still pressed under, fold the cuff to wrong side on line X and press. Then fold pressed cuff edge (folding on line y/w) to right side of sleeve and press. Unfold.
13. Sew the sides seams/sleeve seams of the top. Finish seams as desired.
14. Fold the cuff hem to the wrong side on pressed crease, and fold the cuff to the inside of the sleeve on line X. Topstitch the hem.
15. Fold the cuff once to the outside on lines W/Y. Topstitch the cuff through the cuff layers and sleeve layers in the ditch of the sleeve seam. This will secure the cuff.
16. If using fusible interfacing, apply it to the wrong side of the facing pieces. If using sew in interfacing baste it to the wrong side of the facing pieces.
17. Sew the Front Facing to the Back Facing at the shoulder seams and press seams open. Turn under a scant ¼" to wrong side of facing along the lower edge and press.
18. Sew the facing to the neckline of the top with right sides together using ¼" seam allowance. You can move the needle position and use the edge of the foot as your guide. Clip and trim the seam allowance and press the facing towards the inside of the top. Pull the facing out from inside the top along with the neckline seam allowances. Edge stitch the neckline facing and seam allowances. This will help the facing stay inside the neckline and create a nice finished edge.
19. Press the facing to the inside of the top and pin in place. Depending on the width of the facing you created topstitch the facing and top neckline 1 ¼" from the finished neckline edge.
20. Hem the top using your favorite method.
We hope you have enjoyed this Pearl Top with Cuffed Sleeves Hack! Please let us know in the comments if you’d like to see more hacks and if you’d be interested in PDF pattern add ons for purchase.